I travelled to Brasov in Romania from Hungary using my Interrail pass. I caught the night train to Brasov from Bekescsaba, a small town in the southeast of Hungary.
Brasov is a very beautiful city in Transylvania and I would recommend you spend at least a weekend there. If you don’t have a car then the train is your second best option although it takes quite some time so make sure you are not in a rush to catch a plane after your visit to Brasov.
Here is my itinerary:
- I caught the night train from Bekescsaba to Brasov
- Arrived in Brasov Saturday morning around 11AM
- Checked into Belfort Hotel and visited the old town
- Travelled to Sigishoara on Sunday afternoon
- Train back to Bekescsaba Sunday night
Using The Interrail Pass
I had a two week Interrail pass and I travelled from London to Brasov via France, Switzerland, Austria and Hungary. The best thing with the Interrail is that you do not need a reservation so you can just get on and off wherever you like.
This only applies to regular services though, if you want the high speed trains you may need to make a reservation and pay extra.
It was pretty hot when I visited Brasov: it was 41 degrees the day I caught the train and it was going to be the same all weekend. Unfortunately the trains aircon went kaputt and it was like sleeping in a furnace both there and back so I was a bit miffed about it. Otherwise it is a nice way to travel and I would recommend it to anyone interested in train travel.
What you need to remember is that on night trains the conductor will take your ticket – it is normal practice and there is nothing to worry about. He will write your couchette number on the ticket and wake you up in the morning at your station.
Just make sure you remember to get your Interrail pass back, otherwise you will not be able to travel with it again!
Crossing The Border
The train arrived about half an hour late and we spent a good hour at the border crossing. Although Hungary and Romania are both members of the EU, Romania is not part of the Shengen zone so there are still border checks.
Bekescsaba is about 20 minutes from the border, so pretty soon it was already time for the passport checks. Once the Hungarians checked the passports, it was the Romanians’ turn to do the same.
Tip: If you are visiting from outside the EU you might need a visa so check before you travel!
The train had a first class carriage, various second class cars and two sleeping carriages. I did not have a pre-booked sleeping compartment once we left Bekescsaba I went to find the sleeping compartments.
It is possible to book on the train but be ready to haggle with the conductor as more often than not he will just pocket the money and the railway company will see nothing of it.
There is a huge volume of trade crossing the Hungarian and Romanian border as this is the main line between Turkey and the West of Europe. You will likely see many trains loaded with cars, trucks and various types of cargo heading towards the Black Sea or Western Europe.
Anyhow, I did get a bed which I was very happy about! After the border crossing I settled down and slept until we arrived in Teius or Tovis. After Tovis the line separated and we entered the slow section to Brasov via Sigishoara.
Slow Progress
Although the entire line is electrified, the tracks are in such poor condition that we could only chug along at about 30-40 kilometers per hour! The 230 kilometers took five and a half hours to complete! Fortunately the scenery was very pretty with lots of little churches and winding rivers along the tracks but it felt like a lifetime getting to Brasov.
It was harvest time so the fields were full of straw bales and people picking fruits which was nice to see as I sat by the window – rather bored already!
After Sigishoara (Segesvar) the train went a little faster but we still managed to arrive an hour and a half behind schedule. It was interesting to see that there were several abandoned freight carriages along the way and most stations looked dilapidated.
I was so surprised by this as this is probably the most beautiful part of Transylvania and the richest region of Romania, yet there were trees growing out of rail carriages and buildings were falling down along the tracks. Incredible!
Arriving in Brasov
When we finally arrived at the outskirts of Brasov it came as a huge relief after nearly 12 hours on the slow train. Although it is quite romantic to think about taking the night train to anywhere, it is often faster to drive so if you are short on time I would recommend just renting a car and spending a bit more time at your destination.
I visited Brasov in Transylvania using my Interrail pass, travelling from the direction of Hungary. I left Hungary in the evening, travelling on the night train towards Brasov, arriving there in the morning. As soon as I arrived in Brasov, I headed off to discover the city center, which is famous for its Saxon architecture.
Brasov Weekend Itinerary
If you are using your Interrail pass chances are you will be travelling from the direction of Budapest. So what I would recommend you do is take the Friday night train from Hungary, arrive in Brasov Saturday morning and then spend the night there.
Walk around Brasov on Saturday and Sunday morning, then take the 2PM train to Sigishoara. The ride takes about three hours, leaving you another 4-5 hours to walk around Sigishoara, which I would say is just enough. From there you can catch the 10PM night train back towards Budapest, which is what I did.
Another alternative is to get off the train in Sigishoara on Saturday morning, spend the day there and take a train to Brasov where you can spend Saturday night and all day Sunday. From Brasov you can then head on towards Bucuresti and Bulgaria or even Turkey! The possibilities are endles!
Here is what I did:
Day 1
- I hopped on the night train in Bekescsaba, Hungary
- Arrived in Brasov Saturday morning
- Checked into the Belfort Hotel
- Lunch at the Brasserie
- Walked around the Old Town of Brasov
- Dinner at one of the many restaurants
Day 2
- Take the Cable Car to Tampa Mountain
- Walk down to the city through the forest
- Lunch at the La Maison de Crepes Restaurant
- Visit Nicolae Titulescu Park
- Walk up to the Castle
- Take train to Sighisoara
Getting to Town From Brasov Train Station
Brasov train station is a bit far from the city center, so if you don’t want to walk take a taxi or a local bus. The socialist splendour caught my eye immediately as soon as I exited the station and I decided to walk all the way to the old town. As I was walking into town, I discovered a vegetable and fruit market which was selling locally grown products, so I decided to pop in and get some lunch there.
The Fruit and Vegetable Market
The market was quite big and fully covered, with hundreds of sellers offering their products. There were even vending machines for fresh eggs and milk and a couple of bars offering food and drinks. My favourites were the fresh raspberries and strawberries and I also bought a packet of strawberries. They tasted absolutely delicious!
Socialist Splendour
Brasov received special attention even during communist times, under the leadership of dictator Nicolae Ceausescu. The wide boulevards and high rise buildings testify to an age gone by when concrete and asphalt ruled over beauty and common sense.
You can witness this by walking through the communist district from the train station to the old town. Although the buildings look slightly grotty, if you look carefully you can see the attention to detail and the attempt to provide accommodation considered luxurious at the time to the proletariat.
As I walked along the main road to the historic district I imagined what it might have been like growing up there as a kid, playing at the playground and walking to school along this main thoroughfare of Brasov. I must admit, I quite liked some of the more modern buildings actually.
Getting Closer To Ancient Brasov
As you walk closer to the city center, you will discover more and more historic homes from before the Second World War. As soon as I checked in to the Belfort Hotel, I had a quick shower and went for a long walk around town.
Brasov town council and the European Union have spent a lot of money on renovating the old town and beautifying the city which has paid off as many tourists visit here winter and summer. During the winter you can go skiing in the nearby mountains while in the summer you can sit on the sidewalk and enjoy a café or cocktail.
My favourite place was the Brasserie, from where I could admire the architecture of this ancient Saxon town. Sitting on the terrace, almost in the middle of the main square I could enjoy people watching and take in the sights and sounds of this ancient Saxon city.
The best is that if you stand in the middle of the square, you will be able to see the Greek Catholic Church, the Town Hall and the famous German Saxon church – the main points of interest in Brasov.
The Historic City Center in Brasov
Much of the historic city center has now been completely done up where cafes and restaurants line almost every street. The Saxons first came here in the Middle Ages when the Hungarian king asked them to defend this southern border of Hungary. They then stayed on and started to trade and defend the trade routes between the north and the south.
In later centuries industry started to thrive here and there are also many educational institutions here, drawing lots of students. Perhaps the most emblematic structure in Brasov is Saint Catherine’s Gate, which is the last gate that remains from the former fortification of the city.
You can also find a nice synagogue here, as well as the narrowest street in town, leading closer to Tampa Mountain where I caught the cable car up to the top.
Natural Beauty Surrounding Brasov
What attracts most people to Brasov is the natural beauty of the surrounding hills, and one in particular, Tampa Mountain. Tampa Mountain, just behind Café Central, is a pretty little hill which you can easily climb during an afternoon hike around Brasov.
Before going up to the top I decided to sit down at Cafe Central and order their Mojito, which was indeed very refreshing in the scorching summer heat. From there I walk across the square and up a narrow alleyway towards the cable car.
The Cable Car In Brasov
If you want to save some energy, you can take the cable car up to Tampa Mountain. The ride will take about 5-10 minutes, allowing you to take in the stunning vistas as you ascend to the top of the mountain, overlooking this magnificent medieval city.
Tampa Mountain is famous for the massive Brasov sign on the sign of the hill, resembling the Hollywood sign over Los Angeles. It is easy to walk to the sign and to admire the views from atop of the mountain, but be prepared for crowds as many tourists visit this place for weekend breaks.
Instead of taking the cable car down, I would recommend walking back through the forest on the other side of the hill. The walk will take about one hour, but you will have the opportunity to listen to birds singing and to take in the beautiful scenery that Tampa Mountain has to offer.
Visiting Brasov Castle
When I got to the bottom of the hill I went for another walk around the city center. This time, I visited the town hall, the park next to it and I also walked past the cathedral and up to the old castle.
The castle is on top of a small mountain near Nicolae Titulescu Park. As you cross the park, you will see a white cathedral and past it will be a street up, leading to a narrow alleyway.
The views from the castle are pretty spectacular, overlooking the old and new districts of Brasov. There is also a museum inside the castle, displaying the history of the place.
Visiting Sighisoara
After visiting Brasov Castle I went back to the hotel to pick up my stuff and I started walking back towards the train station to visit Sigishoara, another Saxon city in Transylvania.