Morocco in North Africa is probably the most civilised and peaceful Arabic country that you can visit at present. It has a stable government, a good king and an amazing road and rail network, so nothing should stop you from visiting this North African beauty.
If you are planning a trip to Morocco for a driving holiday, read my story for a one week itinerary from the sea to the desert.
There are plenty of direct flights here from Europe and North America and many low cost carriers connect the various Moroccan tourist attractions to major European hubs so a one week road trip in Morocco is closer than you think!
Driving to the desert has been a lifetime dream for me so when I booked my flight for my own one week road trip in Morocco literally nothing could stop me from seeing the desert oases and ancient towns of this North African gem.
I recently visited Morocco and probably had the best road trip in my life outside the USA so I decided to prepare this article to tell you all about me one week road trip in Morocco and to give you an itinerary to help you out.
If you follow these directions below one week will be plenty for an awesome road trip in Moroccan!
One Week Road Trip Itinerary In Morocco
Scroll down the list below to see the places I visited during my week-long tour around Morocco by car. During this road trip in Morocco I visited Roman ruins, Moroccan bazaars, the desert sand dunes in the south and Rabat, the capital in the north.
So if you are in Morocco for a full week and want to find out what to see in this ancient Roman country, then scroll down to check out the videos, photos and the commentary.
Related: Check out my article about Marrakesh, where I spent another week on holiday
If you are a business traveller looking to extend your trip, a long weekend is also sufficient to discover what one of the major cities of Morocco has to offer.
There are various conferences in Marrakesh, Fes, Casablanca and Rabat and these cities are very well connected by a modern motorway network so you can easily drive to nearby tourist attractions.
Renting a car and driving across Morocco is relatively simple, which is what I did during my self-guided Moroccan holiday.
I never visited Africa before this road trip but I read somewhere that Morocco would be a good starting point – so during my Moroccan road trip I visited:
- Rabat
- Volubilis
- Fes
- Ifrane
- Midelt
- Merzouga
- Dades Gorges and
- Ait ben Haddou
Touring Morocco by Car
Ryanair and Easyjet operate cheap flights to various Moroccan airports. I picked Rabat, which is the capital of Morocco. The streets are very pretty in the old town and the people are equally friendly. I am very happy I started out here as Fes was a bit of a shock to the senses, so Rabat and Sale was a good introduction for a newbie like me.
Morocco Car Rental Costs
I rented a car at the airport from Hertz for my road trip in Morocco and drove to Rabat Sale for the night. Rabat is the capital city of Morocco and a former French colonial town.
My Ryanair flight arrived after 8 pm so there wasn’t much to do. The return plane ticket was only £42 ($60) and the car for the week was £95 plus fuel. If you don’t have time for a long break, you can fly to Rabat and enjoy the sights for a Moroccan city break. The next morning I walked around Rabat and headed off to Volubilis and Moulay Idriss.
Sale Medina is part of Rabat, the capital city of Morocco. Ryanair flies to Sale from many European cities and it is a perfect starting point for any road trip. Flying to Rabat Sale on a Saturday evening makes for a good start and helps you settle in.
The ride into town is super easy, it is a straight road from the airport to Rabat or Sale Medina. If you are picking up a rental car, it is probably easiest if you leave it at the airport until the morning though.
That way you will save the hassle of looking for parking the first night. I did the complete opposite and picked up the car in the dark, then spent two hours looking for the hotel and parking.
If you are here on a business trip and have an extra day to turn it into a bleisure trip, then visit Sale Medina followed by Rabat Medina. If you can extend your trip into a long weekend I would recommend hiring a car and driving to Volubilis and nearby Meknes.
The Sale Medina
Sale Medina is an ancient part of town and is far less attractive than Rabat, which is just across the water. I booked a room in Sale because it was half price – now I know why. The streets were not as clean as Rabat and it was less inviting but the people were just as friendly.
Make sure to bring cash with you, because that’s how most businesses operate in Sale Medina. Although there are various cash points along the streets you might need the cash on the way in so be prepared.
Also, most parking garages also only accept cash so it is best to have some in advance. Again, I did not have cash so I spent an additional hour look for a cash point before I could park. It’s been a long time since I’ve been to a country where people prefer cash.
Riad Dar Nawfal in Sale Medina
When I finally had enough cash and found parking, I went to look for my Riad in Sale Medina. I stayed at the Riad Dar Nawfal in the middle of the old town. It was a challenge to find it as it was in a dead end.
It was the first time for me to visit an old medina with twisting and curving streets, so it was quite an experience. I was also a bit worried to get lost or mugged – all completely pointless. As it turned out later people in this part of town are very honest and helpful, so there is nothing to worry about.
The check in process was a bit difficult as nobody in the Riad spoke English and I don’t speak French. Luckily I printed my forms and she found it fine and I went to drop my bag off.
Unfortunately I didn’t opt to pay in advance so in the morning we couldn’t understand each other again so I overpaid. Lesson: next time I travel to places where I don’t understand the language I will pre-pay and print the receipt.
There was a shop just round the corner where bought some water and biscuits. At first the guy wouldn’t sell me the biscuits so I had to insist, but he still wouldn’t give them to me. I was becoming a bit annoyed which I think he noticed.
So he pointed out the sell-by date on the packaging, which was the day before. Turns out he didn’t want to sell me out-of-date biscuits! I felt guilty for being annoyed at him!
Scenic Route R4553 to the Volubilis Roman Ruins
By this time it was almost midnight so I went to bed. The next day, Sunday morning I got up early and went for a walk back towards the car. The entire town was almost completely empty!
There were only a few people here and there and one single cafe open. They sold a special corn-flour bread with a chocolate-nutella spread. It was delicious with the fresh mint tea. I had a couple of these then headed out of town to Volubilis.
I took route N1 towards Kenitra, then joined N4 towards Sidi Slimane. It was late September but the heat was still almost unbearable. Luckily there was aircon in the car. After Sidi Slimane I drove to Sidi Kacem and took R413 then R4553. The longer the numbers, the narrower the roads! R4553 is a stunning road, with amazing scenery.
The road was just about wide enough for my Fiat Punto but I was all alone. The drive takes about three hours non-stop from Sale to Volubilis. I stopped off to buy some biscuits and water at a supermarket and also to stretch my legs but I still got to Volubilis just before lunch.
Volubilis, Moulay Idriss and Fes – Ancient Towns in Morocco
Volubilis is an ancient Roman ruin in the North of Morocco. If you love Roman history, you will have a field day in Volubilis as it is one of the most well-preserved roman ruins in Morocco.
It sits on top of a relatively high hill, surrounded by gold coloured fields and olive groves. From atop of the hill where the Volubilis Capitol sits, it is easy to see Moulay Idriss, the other nearby medieval Moroccan tourist attraction.
How to Get to Volubilis from Rabat Airport
As you come out north of Rabat, drive on national highway A1 and after Kenitra turn right onto N4. When you get to the junction with N13, turn right toward Volubilis and follow the signs to the archaeological site. The drive will take about two and a half hours.
Volubilis: Mauritania’s Provincial Capital
Volubilis was once the Mauritanian capital, which is what the Romans used to call Morocco. According to the UNESCO website, the city started out life in the 3rd century BCE and became an important outpost of the Roman Empire.
The Romans graced it with many fine buildings and extensive remains of these have survived at the archaeological site. The town later briefly became the capital of Idris I, the founder of the Idrisid dynasty.
His remains lie at nearby Moulay Idriss. Volubilis is in a fertile agricultural area of Morocco and the region has continued to be important to this day.
The Volubilis UNESCO World Heritage Archaeological Site
Volubilis covers an area of 42 hectares and is of outstanding importance demonstrating urban development. The town is also a showcase of Roman culture at the frontiers of the Empire.
The residents of the city were a diverse people and included Africans, Syrians, Spaniards and Jews. The population of the city would have numbered up to 20,000 at its peak.
Things to Do in Volubilis, Morocco
Unfortunately, it is not very easy to reach Volubilis by public transport. The easiest option is to rent a car. If that’s not possible hop in a shared taxi. Many towns and cities have taxi stations where you can share a ride with the locals. This is probably the easiest and cheapest version of transport in the country.
Once you arrive in Moulay Idriss it is a 20-30 minute walk to the ruins. In the summer heat it can be very hot so you might be better off hiring a taxi to the entrance of the museum.
There is a restaurant at the museum and various tour guides which you can hire by the hour. The entry ticket was only 20 dirhams. I am not sure how much the tour guides were as I did the tour on my own. The site has very good signs so I thought I would just go it alone.
The tourist office has sign-posted a loop which takes about 2-3 hours walking, depending on how fast you walk and much you read.
Ancient Roman Sights in Volubilis
The most fascinating sights for me were the huge arches and columns and the authentic olive oil press. Many of the houses have the original mosaics with some amazing images depicting life at the time.
The best is to walk around the edges of town first as most tourist avoid these parts. Here the ruins are not that well preserved but sitting there I could imagine what it might have been like living there all those centuries ago.
At the centre of Volubilis are the best preserved ruins. The Forum Romanum, the Town Hall as well as the richest homes of the city. If you get tired or too hot, you can sit under the olive trees and enjoy the breeze atop this ancient hill.
Volubilis is an ancient Roman town in the North of Morocco. Driving to Volubilis from Rabat took about 2.5 hours but it takes even less on the motorway. Volubilis is one of the most well-preserved roman ruins in the country. It sits on top of a hill, surrounded by gold coloured fields and olive groves. From atop of the hill it is easy to see Moulay Idriss, the other nearby attraction.
In the afternoon I left for Moulay Idriss and my final destination for the day: Fes. Fes is a beautiful Moroccan town with huge medieval walls surrounding it. The moment I arrived I had flashbacks to Age of Empires II, fighting with the Mamelukes.
As soon as I entered through the main gate I felt like I flew back in time to the Middle Ages. What made it even more interesting is that my favourite Jewish philosopher, Maimonides studied here!
There were restaurants everywhere, shopkeepers offering their goods and musicians playing music. Donkeys carried merchandise from one end of town to the other and children were running after their parents.It was absolutely fascinating to see such a change in scenery.
Fes is a real shock to the senses and not just the sights – also the smells. One corner it smells like chocolate and coffee, the other it is the pungent smell of the tanneries. But more about Fes later.
Fes el Bali in the Northeast of Morocco is a prime example of medieval Arabic architecture. This means that there are plenty of things to see in the heart of Morocco’s cultural capital. The city has stood here since the 9th century CE, and is home to the oldest Muslim university in the country.
According to the UNESCO, Fes reached the height of its affluence in the 13th–14th centuries under the Marinids, when it replaced Marrakesh as the capital of the kingdom. Many of the principal monuments in Fes medina date from this period.
Although the political capital of Morocco is now Rabat, Fes has retained its status as Morocco’s cultural and spiritual centre. Both Ryanair and Easyjet fly direct here and with plenty of things to do nothing should stop you from visiting Fes.
The main points of interest in Fes in Morocco are all inside the ancient Medina. The Medina is basically the old town in Fes, within the city walls – a fascinating place and fortunately 2-3 days is plenty to discover it. Most of the tourist action happens here in Fes: you will see donkeys carting goods up and down the narrow streets and find the best leather goods anywhere in Morocco.
If you want to find out what to see in Fes then scroll down to check out my photos and read my commentary about my recent trip to Fes el Bali. I only spent two nights here as I only had a week in Morocco and wanted to see the desert in Merzouga where I drove in my rental car.
If you prefer not to rush things in Fes, you can spend more time in town, but if you have only one week in Morocco like I did then two-three nights in Fes will suffice.
Fes Medina – Three Day Travel Itinerary
The best thing to do if you are in Fes is to book a room in a Riad in the Medina (old town). Staying in Fes Medina will mean you will never need to walk far as you will be at the center of all the action.
It doesn’t matter which order you do the below, the important thing is you don’t miss them out! I can guarantee you will get lost at one point so consider yourself lucky if you’ve managed to tick them all off.
The moment I entered Fes it felt like stepping into a different world. The main gate to the city is at Bab Mahrouk, just next to the market and a large car park. I parked my car here and paid for two nights. After some haggling I brought the price down to 80 dirhams, which is quite a good price. The car park is very safe and two guards stay around 24/7.
The walk from the car park to the main gate in Fes is about 3 minutes. As soon as you enter you will feel like you’ve travelled back 500 years in time! There are cafes on both sides and everyone is trying to sell their wares in the shops. There is a cavalcade of activity and everyone seems to be trying to get somewhere!
As I walked a little bit further down the road I saw some musicians playing their drums and children were dancing around them. On the left a stone mason was just preparing the head stone for someone that died that day, while on the other side a shoemaker was making a leather flip-flop.
Everyone was rushing up and down the streets in Fes el Bali and it all seemed unbelievable. I expected something similar to the Istanbul market but it simply doesn’t compare.
My Hotel In Fes – Morocco
Riad Tahrya is a typical Moroccan bed and breakfast or youth hostel. It has a covered inner courtyard with a small fountain and a rooftop terrace. The rooms have private showers and windows to the courtyard.
I absolutely loved it and would fully recommend it to anyone. The staff were very nice and helpful and they even prepared a takeaway breakfast for me for my last day. If you need directions, the staff will be happy to tell you what to do in Fes el Bali.
Ryad Tahrya is in a secluded sidewalk, which is also a dead-end so it is super quiet. It was a bit of a challenge to find it first but then I realized they had signposts so after that it was much easier to get there.
It is just between Rue Talaa Kebira and Talaa Sghira, which are the two main arteries of the Fes el Bali Medina. There are no cars inside the walled city and the only way to get around is by walking. There are hundreds of streets inside the Medina and many of them are dead-ends so you will spend quite some time walking backwards and forwards finding your way. It is not a challenge to get lost here!
The Labyrinth of the Fes el Bali Medina
If you are worried about never finding your way back to your Riad you can hire a guide in Fes el Bali. I thought it would be a waste of money and they are not cheap at 250 dirham per day so I went it alone. I turned left on Talaa Sghira as I came out of the walkway where Riad Tahrya is.
This is where my problems started. I kept walking further down the way and when the road ended I turned left or right or wherever I could. Some of the side streets were only as wide as my shoulder width and it was dark so I didn’t risk those on my first night.
Finding Your Way Around The Old Town In Fes
Talaa Sghira and Talaa Kebira are the main roads of the Medina in Fes el Bali. Most of the shops, cafes and restaurants are along these routes and it is impossible to miss them. Cars and motorbikes are not allowed so prepare for a lot of walking in the Fes heat.
There is a steep hill at the centre of Fes and whichever way you go you will need to climb it at least twice. It is pretty much impossible to orientate yourself so just give yourself a day to find your feet. The important sights and things to do are at the centre of Fes, so just walk towards the hilltop’s direction from any gate.
Bab Boujloud: This is the main entrance gate to the Medina. If you park at the main car park outside the walls, the gate will be on your right. You can reach both Talaa Sghira and Talaa Kebira from here.
Religious Sights in Fes, Morocco
Mosque of al-Qarawiyyin: It is one of the major mosques in the Medina. Entrance is not allowed for non-muslims but you can peek inside through the arches.
Medersa el-Attarine: It is also a major religious site and for muslims only but you can peek through the doors.
Al Karaouin University: Dating back to 859 Morocco claims this is the oldest university in the world. This is disputed by the Egyptians so I will just say this is the oldest university in Morocco. Entrance is again only allowed to muslims but you can see the courtyard from the entrance gate. The great Jewish sage, Rambam (Maimonides) also studied here.
Medersa Sahrij: This Medersa has stood here since 1321. The medersa is famous for its white and green minarets on top of the structure. As with most medersas, the Sahrij Medersa has a paved courtyard and the interior has some of the most exquisite cedar wood and stone carvings.
Unique Points of Interest in Fes – Morocco
Moulay Abdellah Quarter: This is where most of the leather tanneries are – prepare to choke from the stink. The only way to see the tanneries is from atop of the surrounding buildings. Problem is, you can only enter the buildings through the ground floor shops and they will keep pestering you to buy something. If you don’t want to buy anything just give 10 or 20 dirham to the shopkeeper and exit.
Fondouk el Nejjarine: It is an 18th century roadside inn which now functions as a museum. Exhibits include traditional Moroccan wooden arts and crafts. There is also a rooftop cafe, providing an amazing vista of the surrounding area. I went up here on my second day in Fes and it felt so fascinating to emerge from the city. By then I felt slightly odd not having seen the sky in two days – surrounded by narrow lanes and walls closing up above my head.
The metal-workers district: Walking around in this district you can find the most interesting objects made from copper and brass. The best is that the craftsmen make them right in front of you. Definitely worth a visit.
The weavers’ district: Lo and behold, this is where you can buy all sorts of textiles and clothing, all hand-made right on site.
Bab Rcif: It is another gate in the Medina, surrounded by a major square. This is where the vegetable market is and during the evenings most locals gather here to catch up.
Hammams: the local bath houses can get pretty crowded with locals but if you are interested in mingling with them it is definitely worth an evening visit.
The Mellah (Jewish Quarter)
Walk over here from the Medina by crossing the main square and road just outside Bab Boujloud. There are various synagogues here open to the public for a 20 dirham fee. Beware that some of the teenage and middle age men might come up offering to show you the Mellah.
Just say politely you are not interested – if you are lucky they will leave you alone. It is quite a hassle and can be very annoying when people are pestering you non-stop. Unfortunately it is something that most tourists just need to get used to.
Eating and Drinking in Fes – Morocco
Eat or drink at pretty much any of the restaurants and cafes in the Medina. They are all safe and have menus with the price – if they don’t just look for another place. These are family run places, often the mother and father cooking and the children serving up the food. I picked a restaurant near Bab Boujloud and also had dinner at another close to the Fondouk. All names and exact location duly forgotten.
The Labyrinth of the Fes el Bali Medina
If you are worried about never finding your way back to your Riad you can hire a guide in Fes el Bali. I thought it would be a waste of money and they are not cheap at 250 dirham per day so I went it alone. I turned left on Talaa Sghira as I came out of the walkway where Riad Tahrya is.
This is where my problems started. I kept walking further down the way and when the road ended I turned left or right or wherever I could. Some of the side streets were only as wide as my shoulder width and it was dark so I didn’t risk those on my first night.
The receptionist told me not to talk to the young boys offering a tour or to take me back to the riad as they might be pick pockets. So instead of asking for help I just kept going. This went on for about two hours at which point I was about to faint.
I hadn’t eaten or drunk anything since I checked in so I sat down in one of the small cafes. As it turned out a Polish girl was a regular here, she owns her own Riad in Fes. We started talking and then she pointed me to the right direction to find my hotel.
Sleeping In Fes
I stayed at the Riad Tahrya for three nights. The staff were amazing and I wasn’t disappointed at all. I particularly loved sitting on the rooftop in the evenings, listening to the birds chirping away.
Driving Through The Atlas Mountains To Hassi Labied
After nearly three days in Fes I was ready to leave so I decided to drive to Ifrane, a city high up in the Atlas Mountains. Ifrane is a very clean and European city – a stark contrast to Fesfes.
Erg Chebbi is a desert just behind Hassi Labied in the south of Morocco. Hassi Labied itself is a very small town near Merzouga at the edge of the dunes in the Moroccan desert. It is here where you will find Riad Aicha, probably the best bed and breakfast in Morocco.
Most people visit Merzouga just next door, but the two places basically offer the same things, except Hassi Labied is less overcome by the tourist crowds. Both are next to the dunes and are well connected to nearby Erfoud. The best is, the Moroccan desert is just behind both villages, so you can go on your own self-guided desert tour basically any time of the day.
The difference between Merzouga and Hassi Labied is that Hassi Labied is far quieter and people don’t pester tourists. It was on my fifth day in Morocco that I arrived here and by then I was so tired of people trying to sell me things that I didn’t want to speak to anyone. So came Ibrahim, the owner of Riad Aicha in Hassi Labied, into my life.
How to Get to Erg Chebbi in Morocco
There are various organized tours from Marrakesh and Fes which cost less than €100 per person, including the transfer, food and one night accommodation in the desert. You can also rent a car and drive yourself to Merzouga or Hassi Labied and go for a walk on your own during the day.
Arriving at Riad Aicha in Hassi Labied
I stopped at the main square in town and was trying to figure out where I was. There was no telephone connection and my map was totally useless for small roads. I was so tired by then that I would have happily slept under a bridge at that point. So I turned around and decided to stop at any hotel to sleep. Hoping to find the same road I came on I took the wrong turn into a dead end.
I drove a bit further on to turn around and this was where I spotted a sign to Riad Aicha “with free Wifi”. As soon as I saw it I thought this was it, I am going to check in and download the map for the following day.
I parked up in front of his B&B and went in to inquire about the rates. He said it would be 200 dirhams per night, including breakfast. I wasn’t going no further! I grabbed my rucksack, he showed me into the room and I had a much needed shower.
The Spanish Biker
After the shower I went to speak with Ibrahim and it turned out that he had a returning guest staying that night. He was Ruben “Maxtral” Botas, a Spanish biker returning for the second time.
They were about to set off for dinner with another berber family so we could only speak for a short while. Ruben runs a motorbiker’s website in Spanish and it was his second trip to Morocco.
I explained how I got there and what I did in Fes and Rabat. I then showed them what I had bought so far: some porcelain items and Moroccan incense. It was quite expensive in Fes so I only had a very small amount of incense but Ibrahim gave me a handful more of his own! Here is Ruben’s take on the trip to Hassi Labied.
Riad Aicha Review
The owner of Riad Aicha is Ibrahim and he operates the place with his brothers. It is right on the doorstep of the sand dunes in a quiet side street.
Here, you can taste real Moroccan gastronomy in their family restaurant – everything is prepared fresh by Ibrahim or his brothers. The riad has six bedrooms in local style with AC and free wifi included.
You can also enjoy the impressive views from the terrace over some mint tea, looking over to the Erg Chebbi dunes near Merzouga.
Special Tailor Made Tours
Ibrahim can help you organize special 4×4 tours of the desert and also camel caravans. The length of the tours depends entirely upon you, can take hours or days, depending on how much time and money you have. If you want, they can also arrange to spend a few days with real nomadic Berbers or tours of the Atlas mountains and valleys.
I booked myself on a Moroccan desert camel tour, which is in fact a dromeda tour! These animals only have one bump on the back! The tour cost 350 dirhams with food and drinks included in the middle of the desert.
The camel ride took about an hour to the camp site where we received freshly made food. There was also music and dancing and a huge storm. The Germans in the group were distraught, I think they were ready to ask for a refund. I really enjoyed the storm, which was the first in 2016.
Home Made Food
On my first day at Riad Aicha I asked Ibrahim to make me lunch. He cooked up the most amazing chicken tagine from scratch.
According to their website, “Riad Aicha provides you an unforgettable trip around the region of Merzouga, Erg Chebbi and into the heart of the Sahara Desert” – I can’t agree more!
Following Ifrane I drove all the way to Hassi Labied, near Merzouga, 9 hours away. This is where the yellow and golden sand dunes of the Sahara begin. Merzouga was absolutely breathtaking: seeing the endless dunes for the first time was quite special!
I stayed in a Berber bed and breakfast called Riad Aicha. The place is run by Ibrahim and his brothers providing for a great experience.
After a delicious breakfast I went on a long walk in the morning in the Erg Chebbi Desert.
Back in the hotel Ibrahim cooked lunch for me from scratch. At first I didn’t understand why he wanted to know in advance if I wanted lunch or not but then I realised: he was cooking everything from scratch!
He made chicken and vegetables for lunch after which I went on a camel ride. We rode out in the evening and spent the night out in the Erg Chebbi Desert. It was the first storm of the year in the desert and I was in the middle of it!
Moroccan Road Trip to The Dades Gorges
The drive from Merzouga to the Dades Gorge should take about five hours non-stop through the Valley of Kasbahs. The road to the Dades Gorges crosses Erfoud and then turns left into the Valley of the Thousand Kasbahs on route N10.
It is a nice drive with spectacular scenery, although much more congested than route N13 through the Atlas Mountains. If you don’t want to rush it I would recommend a full day, including stop overs at tourist spots, leaving early in the morning.
If it is business that’s brought you to Marrakesh, then try and extend your trip by a couple of days and visit the Erg Chebbi Desert at Merzouga. If you don’t want to drive alone, you can hire a private driver or arrange a tour at your hotel in Marrakesh.
Leaving early in the morning you will catch the camel ride out to the desert in the after. For more details read my article about the Erg Chebbi Desert Tour.
How to Get to the Dades Gorge in Morocco
If you are coming from the direction of Marrakech, drive along Road N10 until you start seeing signs to turn left toward the Dades Gorge. Once you’ve turned left it will be a direct road to the gorge. Do the reverse if you are driving from Merzouga, Morocco’s desert.
Road Trip From Merzouga to the Dades Gorge
My plan was to leave early but unfortunately I messed up. Stupidly I took the car keys with me on the camel track into the desert and I left them in the tent! They slipped out of my pocket and didn’t think of checking under the mattress when we left. So as I was about to check out from Riad Aicha I realised that I couldn’t open the car!
Thankfully Ibrahim offered to walk me back to the campsite and we found the keys there! The weather was still very stormy and the walk took about three hours return! I was so tired by then that I nearly decided to stay another night but I had to head back to the airport.
Delayed by Losing the Keys to the Car
I finally left Riad Aicha and Hassi Labied around lunchtime and it meant I couldn’t stop anywhere on the way. It was also raining almost all day so I was a bit annoyed. The sun sets around 6PM in Morocco at the end of September and I wanted to check in before and walk to the Dades Gorge.
The problem was that there were road closures along the route because of the torrential rains the day before and overnight. It meant that instead of five hours it took me nearly seven hours to get to the Dades Gorge.
Ibrahim recommended I stay in the Five Moons hotel, which belongs to his Berber friends. The Five Moons hotel is a stunning place, on the edge of a cliff, overlooking the river.
My room was on the quiet side, so I could listen to the river rushing by. The rooms were clean and the landlady cooked dinner for me and the other guests.
The Hungarians at the Dades Gorge
As it turned out the other guests were also Hungarian! What a small world. They came from the capital city, but the man was originally from Marosvasarhely where some of my relatives currently live. We even had some mutual acquaintances. And of all places we met in the Atlas Mountains near the Dades Gorge!
They paid a tour operator for the trip, flying to Marrakesh return from Budapest. Their guide was driving them everywhere and also made all the bookings. They went trekking in the mountains and then off to Merzouga to the desert.
The cost of their trip was actually slightly cheaper than mine, but I would still only go self-driving if I went again. I like my independence and I would be frustrated if I had to follow some tour guide’s orders.
The pros are that you don’t get bothered by people trying to sell you hotel rooms and everything else. The next morning I drove up to the Dades Gorge and then turned around to drive to Ait ben Haddou where I planned to stay for the night.
Driving to Ait ben Haddou
Route N10 is what every tourist takes and this is the main road between Marrakesh and the desert. Understandably, it is full of cars and tour buses and it makes for a slow journey! By lunchtime I was becoming frustrated at my slow progress but there wasn’t much I could do. Finally I got to Ait ben Haddou but I couldn’t be bothered to stay.
It is a super small place and except for the one historic site there isn’t much to do. If you go the entry to the kasbah is 20 riad but to enter each apartment there is a surcharge. And it is full of small shops selling tourist junk and some drawings of the place.
My flight was scheduled for the following evening and I still had several hours to drive to instead of stopping off in Ait ben Haddou I drove on to Telouet on Route P1506.
Thanks to the King’s road building projects most of the roads have been upgraded and there were road works here too. This meant that part of the road had no tarmac, slowing me down to 20 kilometers/hour in some parts.
By the time I got to Telouet it was dark and I drove for a further three hours before I got back to the main road! I do not recommend you do this! I was so exhausted – it was nearly 10 o’clock by then – so I pulled over at the first roadside hotel and slept there overnight.
The storm in the desert caused floods high up in the mountains and the police had to close some of the roads. This meant that I had to take many detours, causing considerable delays in my journey. The drive from Merzouga to the Dades Gorges takes you through the Valley of the 1000 Kasbahs.
This area is where hundreds of ancient fortifications line the roads. The problem is, the roads here are very congested and traffic just crawls along.
Because of all the delays I reach my destination late in the evening: I stayed in another Berber B&B for the night near the Dades Gorges. Ibrahim in Hassi Labied recommended the place as his childhood friend owned it. From here I drove to Ourzazate and Ait ben Haddou.
Visiting Ait ben Haddou During Your Moroccan Road Trip
Ait ben Haddou is an ancient kasbah, a town where travelling merchants lived. The kasbah is an ancient earth and wood fortification which also served as a meeting place for caravans that just crossed the Sahara.
The place I visited is very tourist-centric but I was there in the low season so it was very quiet. This was my penultimate day and had to start driving towards the airport.
Roadside Motel With a View
After Ait ben Haddou I headed over to Telouet, another ancient town. I had to drive around the highlands to get there, but thanks to this I witnessed a beautiful sunset at the top of a mountain. Driving in the dark wasn’t fun on the narrow roads though!
Especially that this narrow rural road was undergoing some upgrades. I kept driving towards Marrakesh as my flight was the next day but in the end I gave up and stopped at a motel instead as I was falling asleep behind the wheel. The motel served food even at 1030 pm so I had my last tagine of the trip and went to bed.
The End Of A One Week Road Trip in Morocco
I spent my last day in Morocco driving towards Rabat. I arrived in Rabat around 3 pm so I still had plenty of time to walk around one more time. Since I didn’t visit the beach before I decided to go there.
Here I spent the next hour watching some Moroccans surfing and then headed out to the airport. I am proud to say there wasn’t a single scratch on the car when I returned it!